Chain names are a mess, and it is not your fault.

Some names describe how the links interlock, like box or cable. Some are Italian trade names, like spiga or Coreana. Some are British terms for chains that Americans call something else entirely. And several are not link types at all, but surface finishes applied on top of an ordinary chain and sold as though they were.

So two shops can sell you the same chain under two different names, and one shop can sell you two very different chains under names that sound related.

This guide covers 41 types, grouped by construction. Each entry tells you what it is, how it is built, how strong it is, and what it suits. Types are numbered so you can find your way back to one.

A note on what we stock: our chains are 925 sterling silver and our range covers a handful of the types below. The rest are here because this is meant to be a complete reference rather than a catalogue, and you deserve the full picture before you spend money anywhere.

How Silver Chains Are Classified

Almost every argument about chain names comes from mixing up three separate things.

Construction is how the links are made and interlocked. Cable, curb, box, rope, byzantine. This is what a chain type actually is.

Profile is the shape the finished chain presents. Round, flat, square, or a ribbon that lies against the skin. Two chains can share a construction and look different because one is flattened.

Finish is what has been done to the surface afterwards. Diamond-cut, oxidised, rhodium-plated, rose gold plated. A diamond-cut chain is still a curb chain or a rope chain underneath. The finish tells you nothing about the construction.

Keep those three apart and the whole category becomes readable. A "diamond-cut flat curb chain" is a curb construction, flattened profile, diamond-cut finish. Three separate decisions, one product name.

The strength ratings used throughout this guide run: very high, high, moderate, low, very low. They describe how the chain survives daily wear and pendant weight, not how much silver is in it.

Classic Link Chains

The fifteen constructions below account for most silver chains sold anywhere. Each is built from repeating links of a single kind, interlocked in a regular pattern. This group contains both the strongest chains you can buy and the two most fragile.

1. Cable Chain

The most common chain in the world, and the one most pendants arrive on. Simple oval or round links, each connected at right angles to the next, in an unbroken repeating pattern.

Cable is popular because it is honest and inexpensive to make. It drapes well, sits flat, and does not fight a pendant for attention. In fine widths it almost disappears against the skin, which is the point.

Its weakness is stretch. Under sustained weight, individual links elongate before anything breaks, so a fine cable chain carrying a heavy pendant slowly deforms. The upside is that it warns you, and a jeweller can replace a single link cheaply.

Strength: moderate in fine widths, high above 2mm.

2. Rolo Chain

Also called a Belcher chain in British usage, which is the same thing under a different name. Rolo uses symmetrical round links of uniform width, all lying in the same plane rather than alternating at right angles.

The result is chunkier and more visible than a cable of the same width. Because the links are round and evenly weighted, a rolo chain rolls slightly as you move, which catches light from more directions.

It is a good middle choice: more presence than a cable, less commitment than a curb. It also carries a pendant comfortably, since the round links distribute pull evenly rather than concentrating it.

Strength: high.

3. Curb Chain

The workhorse. Curb links are oval, then twisted and flattened so each link lies parallel to the one beside it. The result is a chain that sits completely flat against the skin without bunching or rolling.

This is one of the most durable constructions available, because the interlocked flattening spreads tension across several links at once rather than loading a single point. A well-made curb chain survives daily wear for decades.

Curb is also the base for a great many "designer" chains. Flatten it further and you get a flat curb. Twist and diamond-cut it and you get a Singapore.

Strength: very high.

4. Cuban Link Chain

A Cuban chain is a curb chain, made thicker and with the links set tighter together so there is very little gap between them. The name refers to the proportions rather than to a different construction.

The tighter spacing is what gives Cuban chains their solid, almost continuous look. Miami Cuban is a further variant, heavier again, with even less space between links.

Popular in men's jewellery for good reason. The construction is exceptionally strong, it holds its shape under weight, and the width reads as deliberate rather than accidental. In silver, a Cuban chain gets heavy quickly, so width and price rise together.

Strength: very high.

5. Figaro Chain

Instantly recognisable once you know the pattern: one long flattened link followed by two or three short ones, repeating along the whole length. The rhythm is the design.

Figaro is Italian in origin and remains a staple of men's chains, though narrower versions suit anyone. The alternating link lengths break up the visual line, so a figaro reads as more decorative than a plain curb of identical width.

Structurally it is a curb variant, which means it inherits curb's durability. The long links are the point to inspect, since they carry more leverage than the short ones.

Strength: high.

6. Rope Chain

Two strands of small links twisted around each other in a continuous spiral, producing a texture that genuinely resembles rope. It catches light along the twist rather than reflecting it flatly, which is why rope chains sparkle more than their weight suggests.

Rope is strong when solid and considerably weaker when hollow, and both are sold. Worth asking which you are buying.

One failure mode worth knowing: a rope chain under sustained weight tends to work loose at a solder point rather than snapping cleanly, so the failure creeps up on you. Check the joins periodically if you hang anything heavy on it.

Strength: high when solid, moderate when hollow.

7. Box Chain

Square links that interlock flush, forming a smooth continuous square-profile chain with no visible gaps. Geometric, modern, and unusually strong for its width.

Box chains are the quiet favourite for pendants. The square profile resists twisting, so a pendant stays facing forward instead of turning sideways through the day, which is a small thing that becomes irritating on a cable chain.

They hold their shape rather than stretching, which means they give less warning before failure but survive far more before reaching it. A 1.5mm box chain carries weight a 2mm cable would struggle with.

Strength: very high.

8. Venetian Chain

Essentially a box chain with a longer, more rectangular link, so the finished chain looks like a series of small connected bars rather than cubes. Some shops treat the two names as interchangeable, and the distinction is genuinely fine.

The longer link gives a Venetian chain slightly more flexibility than a standard box, and a marginally softer drape. Visually it reads as a little more delicate at the same width.

Everything true of box chains applies here: resists twisting, holds a pendant square, does not stretch.

Strength: high.

9. Snake Chain

Tightly packed plates or rings joined so closely that the chain has almost no visible links, producing a smooth, rounded, flexible tube. Run a finger along one and it feels seamless.

Snake chains are beautiful and they are fragile in a very specific way. Because the plates sit under compression, a sharp bend displaces them permanently and cannot be pushed back. A kinked snake chain stays kinked, and no jeweller can repair it invisibly.

Wear one, but do not sleep in it, do not stuff it into a bag loose, and do not hang a heavy pendant from it.

Strength: low, and vulnerable to permanent kinking.

10. Herringbone Chain

Flat, slanted links laid side by side in a V pattern, forming a smooth ribbon that lies completely flat and reflects light like a mirror. It is the most dramatic-looking chain on this list.

It is also the single most fragile. Herringbone chains kink permanently the moment they are bent sharply, and once the flat links displace, the chain develops a crease that will not come out. This is the most common irreparable chain damage a jeweller sees.

Buy one for the way it looks, treat it as an occasion piece, store it flat, and never fold it.

Strength: very low, and the least forgiving chain made.

11. Wheat Chain

Also called spiga, which is Italian for an ear of wheat and describes the look exactly. Four strands of oval links woven together in a single plaited direction, creating a dense, textured rope-like surface.

Wheat is stronger than rope and holds a straighter line, since the plaiting locks the links against each other rather than letting them spiral. It carries a pendant well and resists kinking.

It is one of the more expensive constructions per gram, because the weave takes more links and more soldering than a simpler chain of the same length.

Strength: very high.

12. Franco Chain

A V-shaped link construction where each link nests into the next, producing a square-profile chain with a finely grooved surface. Popular in men's jewellery, particularly at heavier widths.

Franco chains combine the square rigidity of a box chain with a much finer surface texture, so they read as detailed rather than plain. They are among the strongest chains available and are frequently chosen specifically to carry heavy pendants.

The construction resists twisting almost completely, which is why a pendant on a Franco chain sits where you put it.

Strength: very high.

13. Byzantine Chain

The most intricate construction here. Groups of links interlocked in a repeating four-link pattern that produces a dense, rope-like chain with a distinctly antique, almost woven appearance. The design dates back to the Byzantine Empire, which is where the name comes from.

Byzantine chains are heavy, expensive and unmistakable. The complexity means far more links per centimetre than a simple construction, so the silver weight adds up quickly.

They are also genuinely strong, since each link is supported on multiple sides. Worn alone, without a pendant, is how they are usually styled.

Strength: very high.

14. Singapore Chain

A twisted curb chain, usually diamond-cut, which spirals gently along its length. The twist plus the faceted finish means it catches light from almost every angle, which is why Singapore chains sparkle noticeably more than a plain chain of identical weight.

They are light, fluid and flattering, and they drape beautifully because the twist keeps them moving. A good everyday choice for anyone who wants shine without bulk.

The trade-off is that fine Singapore chains tangle more readily than flat constructions, since the spiral catches on itself. The Sterling Silver Twisted Singapore Chain at around ₹2,300 is a typical everyday weight.

Strength: moderate.

15. Mariner Chain

Also sold as an anchor chain, and both names come from the same source: the construction copies ship anchor chain, with a small bar crossing the centre of each oval link.

That centre bar is the identifying feature and also a structural one, since it stops the link deforming under load. Mariner chains are strong, nautical in feel, and read as more designed than a plain cable.

Flattened versions are common and sit closer to the skin. In silver, mariner chains work well at medium widths for both men and women.

Strength: high.

Flat and Ribbon Chains

These six are built to lie completely flat against the skin, presenting a continuous surface rather than a visible series of links. They are the most striking chains to look at and, as a group, the most delicate to own.

16. Omega Chain

Not a linked chain at all in the usual sense. Small metal plates are mounted onto a woven mesh or wire core, forming a semi-rigid band that holds its curve rather than draping.

Omega chains hold their shape around the neck, which makes them ideal for pendants that need to sit at a precise point without sliding. They are also comfortable, since the flat underside spreads weight evenly.

The catch is rigidity. An omega chain that gets bent out of shape does not recover, and the mesh core cannot be repaired once it is deformed.

Strength: moderate, but shape-critical.

17. Mesh Chain

Fine wire woven into a flexible tube or flat band, producing a fabric-like texture rather than a chain of discrete links. Mesh chains feel soft and heavy at once, which is a distinctive combination.

Because the weave is continuous, mesh drapes in a way no linked chain can match. It also reads as more expensive than its weight, since the labour in the weave is visible.

Mesh does not tangle and does not twist, but it can snag on rough fabric, and a pulled wire in the weave is difficult to repair. The Textured Mesh Sterling Silver Chain at around ₹5,100 is a heavier men's weight.

Strength: moderate.

18. Foxtail Chain

Two rows of angled oval links joined by a flat centre link, woven into a dense, textured chain with a distinctly braided appearance. It looks related to wheat and is built differently.

Foxtail is heavier and more substantial than it appears, and it holds a straight line well. The construction is strong, and the texture hides scratches better than a polished flat chain.

It sits somewhere between a classic link chain and a ribbon chain, which is why it appears in both categories in different guides.

Strength: high.

19. Serpentine Chain

Flat, S-shaped links laid tightly side by side, producing a smooth, slightly wavy ribbon that lies flat and catches light along its length. Slimmer and more flexible than herringbone.

Serpentine chains are elegant and inexpensive to produce, so they appear frequently in fashion jewellery. Worn alone, a serpentine chain is a clean, understated line.

It shares herringbone's core weakness, though to a lesser degree. Sharp bends leave a mark, and the flat links can separate under strain.

Strength: low.

20. Panther Chain

Flat square links set closely together in multiple parallel rows, creating a broad, structured band that looks more like a bracelet strap than a conventional chain. Bold and architectural.

Panther chains make a statement on their own and are rarely worn with a pendant, since the chain is the piece. The multi-row construction is heavy, so in silver these get expensive fast.

They hold their shape well and resist twisting completely, but the many small joins mean more potential failure points than a single-row chain.

Strength: moderate.

21. Popcorn Chain

Sold in Italy as Coreana, which is the same chain. Small cupped links joined so that the chain has a puffed, hollow, slightly bumpy surface that looks like a row of tiny popped kernels.

Popcorn chains are extremely light for their visible bulk, because the links are hollow. That makes them comfortable at widths that would be heavy in a solid construction.

The hollow structure is also the weakness. A popcorn chain crushes if compressed and cannot be pushed back into shape, so it needs careful storage.

Strength: low.

Bead and Station Chains

Instead of a continuous run of identical links, these four space elements along the chain, either as beads in a repeating rhythm or as decorative stations at intervals.

22. Ball Chain

Also called a bead chain. Small metal spheres, either solid or hollow, connected by short lengths of wire at regular intervals. The rhythm of the spheres is the whole design.

Ball chains read as soft and gentle compared with angular link chains, and they layer particularly well, since the gaps between beads leave room for another chain to sit without crowding.

Hollow ball chains are light and inexpensive; solid ones have real weight and cost accordingly. The connecting wires are the weak point, so avoid heavy pendants. The Two-Tone Silver and Rose Gold Ball and Cylinder Chain at around ₹4,600 alternates spheres with short cylinders.

Strength: low to moderate.

23. Satellite Chain

A fine cable or rolo chain with small beads or balls fixed at regular intervals along its length, so the beads sit proud of the chain rather than forming it.

The effect is delicate and slightly textured, and satellite chains have become the default base for layering because they add interest without adding bulk. They also stop a plain chain looking too plain when worn alone.

Structurally it is whatever the base chain is, with beads attached. So a satellite chain on a cable base inherits cable's stretch behaviour.

Strength: moderate.

24. Station Chain

A plain chain with decorative elements set at intervals: stones, charms, discs or motifs. The stations are usually spaced evenly, and the chain between them is deliberately simple.

Station chains sit between a plain chain and a pendant necklace. Detail is distributed rather than concentrated, so the piece reads lighter and draws the eye along the collarbone instead of down to one point.

They layer well for the same reason ball chains do: the gaps leave room. The stations themselves are the thing to inspect, since a station that works loose is more noticeable than a worn link.

Strength: depends on the base chain.

25. Capsule Bead Chain

A variant of the ball chain using elongated capsule or cylinder shapes instead of spheres. The result is more linear and more contemporary, with a rhythm that reads as designed rather than traditional.

Capsule beads catch light along their length rather than at a single point, so the chain has a softer, more continuous shine than a ball chain.

These work well in two-tone, since alternating the finish between capsules creates a pattern without adding any extra components. The Rose Gold Toned Sterling Silver Capsule Bead Chain at around ₹5,400 does exactly that.

Strength: moderate.

Statement and Fashion Chains

These seven are chosen to be seen. They are worn alone more often than with a pendant, and the chain itself is the design decision.

26. Paperclip Chain

Elongated rectangular links with rounded ends, joined in a simple flat run, so the chain genuinely resembles a row of paperclips. One of the defining chain shapes of the last decade.

The long links create negative space, which is why paperclip chains look substantial without being heavy. They layer beautifully against finer chains, since the scale contrast does the work.

They are strong for their weight, because the long links spread load over a greater distance. The Bold Silver Paperclip Link Statement Chain at around ₹12,300 is a heavier statement weight.

Strength: high.

27. Bar Link Chain

Straight bars connected end to end by small jump rings, producing a chain with a segmented, architectural rhythm. The bars can be smooth, textured or faceted.

Bar link chains read as modern and slightly technical, which is why they have become popular in men's jewellery. The straight segments hold a clean line rather than draping softly.

The jump rings between bars are the structural weak point, and they are also the easiest part to repair. The Men's Silver Textured Bar Link Chain at around ₹13,300 alternates polished and matte bars.

Strength: moderate to high.

28. Toggle Chain

Defined by its closure rather than its links. A T-shaped bar slots through a circular ring to fasten, and the closure is worn at the front as part of the design instead of hidden at the back.

Toggle chains have become a signature look precisely because the clasp is the feature. The chain itself is usually a simple cable or rolo.

Practically, toggles are the least secure closure in common use. The bar can work free with movement, particularly if the chain is light enough to swing. Fine for an evening, less so for a full day.

Strength: depends on the base chain; the closure is the risk.

29. Tennis Chain

A continuous line of stones set in individual links, each link connected to the next so the stones form an unbroken row. Named after the tennis bracelet, which is where the format started.

In silver with cubic zirconia, a tennis chain gives a full line of sparkle at a fraction of the cost of the equivalent in gold with diamonds.

The settings are the thing to check. Each stone sits in its own link, so a single loose setting is a single lost stone, and the gap shows immediately in a continuous row.

Strength: moderate; settings matter more than links.

30. Multi-Strand Chain

Two or more separate chains gathered at the ends into shared connectors, so several strands sit together as one piece. The strands can match or deliberately differ in texture and length.

Multi-strand chains give you the layered look without the practical problem of layering, which is that separate chains tangle around each other. Here the strands are fixed in relation to each other.

The gathering points at each end carry the whole load, so they are the part to inspect. A well-made multi-strand distributes the strands evenly rather than letting them twist.

Strength: moderate.

31. Chunky Oval Link Chain

Large, open oval links in a simple run, deliberately oversized. No pattern, no alternation, just scale.

This is the most direct statement chain there is. The links are big enough to read from across a room, and the negative space inside each link keeps the piece from looking solid and heavy despite its size.

Large links are strong individually, and the risk sits at the solder joins, since a big link has more leverage on its weld than a small one.

Strength: high.

32. Fancy Textured Link Chain

A catch-all for chains that alternate two or more link types, or that use links with surface texture, in patterns that do not fall into a named traditional construction. Barrel links with knot links, textured with polished, geometric with round.

These are where most designer chains sit. The construction varies piece by piece, so the strength depends entirely on how it is made rather than on the category.

Look at where the different link types meet, since that transition is usually the weakest join. The Men's Sterling Silver Alternating Textured Link Chain at around ₹12,000 alternates textured barrels with open knots.

Strength: varies by construction.

Traditional and Heritage Chains

Five constructions with long histories, more common in European and traditional jewellery than in mainstream retail. You will meet these in antique pieces and in specialist collections.

33. Bismarck Chain

Multiple rows of flattened links woven together side by side, producing a broad, dense, textured band. Popular in Eastern European and Russian jewellery, where it is a traditional heavy chain.

Bismarck chains are substantial by design. The multi-row weave means a great deal of silver per centimetre, so these are among the heaviest and most expensive chains by weight.

The weave is extremely strong, since load spreads across several rows simultaneously. Worn alone, always.

Strength: very high.

34. Prince of Wales Chain

Fine interlocked links woven into a soft, rope-like chain with a distinctly fluid drape. Lighter and more delicate than a rope chain, and considerably more flexible.

The construction produces a chain that moves almost like fabric, which is its whole appeal. It suits a pendant well because it drapes rather than holding a line.

The fineness is the trade-off. Prince of Wales chains are among the easier constructions to snag and stretch, so they suit occasional wear better than daily.

Strength: low to moderate.

35. San Marco Chain

An Italian construction using curved, domed links set closely together, producing a chain with a puffed, almost quilted surface. Also called a Valentino chain in some markets.

San Marco chains are hollow, which keeps them light despite their visible bulk, and they were extremely popular in the 1980s and 1990s. They are having a revival as vintage-inspired jewellery returns.

Hollow construction means they dent under pressure and cannot be reshaped, so treat them gently.

Strength: low to moderate.

36. Garibaldi Chain

A dense Italian construction using multiple small links interwoven into a compact, textured cord, named after Giuseppe Garibaldi. Similar in effect to a Byzantine chain but tighter and less openly patterned.

Garibaldi chains have a distinctive antique character and a satisfying weight. The dense weave catches light in small points rather than broad reflections.

Like Byzantine, the number of links per centimetre makes these expensive relative to their length.

Strength: high.

37. Rosary Chain

Beads connected by individual wire links, each bead wrapped and looped to the next, rather than strung on a continuous thread. The construction comes from prayer beads and is now widely used in decorative jewellery.

Each bead is independently secured, so a break loses one bead rather than the whole strand, which is a genuine practical advantage over strung beads.

The wire loops are visible between beads and form part of the look. They are also the failure point, since a loop that opens releases its bead.

Strength: moderate.

Finishes Sold as Chain Types

These four are not link constructions. They are surface treatments applied to a chain that already has a construction underneath, and they are sold under their own names, which is why they cause so much confusion. A diamond-cut chain is a curb or a rope or a Singapore chain that has been faceted afterwards.

38. Diamond-Cut Finish

Small flat facets cut into the surface of the links after the chain is made, using a precision cutting tool. The facets catch and throw light in a way a smooth surface cannot.

Diamond-cutting is the cheapest way to make a chain look considerably brighter without adding silver, which is why it is so widely used. On a fine chain it makes a real difference.

One thing to expect: the facets wear flat over years at the points that rub against clothing, so the sparkle dulls unevenly. The Sparkling Diamond-Cut Thin Silver Chain at around ₹3,200 is a fine everyday example.

Underlying construction: usually curb, rope or Singapore.

39. Oxidised Finish

The surface is darkened deliberately using a sulphur compound, then the raised areas are buffed back to bright silver so the dark layer stays in the recesses. The metal underneath is ordinary 925.

On a chain, oxidising emphasises the link structure, since every gap and groove reads darker than the surfaces around it. A textured chain gains considerable definition.

The finish is a surface layer, so it wears at contact points over time and can be restored. Never clean an oxidised chain with a polishing cloth or a silver dip, because both remove exactly the layer that is the design.

Underlying construction: any.

40. Rhodium-Plated Finish

A thin layer of rhodium, a platinum-group metal, applied over the silver. It produces a bright white, highly reflective surface and slows tarnishing considerably.

Rhodium plating is why some silver chains stay bright for years with no polishing. It is a genuine practical benefit rather than only a cosmetic one.

Plating wears at friction points and needs redoing eventually, which is what a re-plating service exists for. The chain underneath is unchanged.

Underlying construction: any.

41. Rose Gold Plated and Two-Tone

Rose gold plating applied over a sterling silver base, either across the whole chain or on selected parts so both metals show at once. Two-tone is the second version.

Two-tone chains solve the mixed-metal question by containing both tones, so they sit comfortably with whatever else you are wearing.

As with rhodium, the plating is a surface layer over silver and wears at contact points. The Silver Rose Gold Polish Geometric Square Pendant Chain is an example at the heavier end.

Underlying construction: any.

Chain Names That Mean the Same Thing

A large part of the confusion in this category is that several chains have two or three names depending on which market you are buying in.

If a shop quotes you two prices for what sounds like two chains, check this table first. You may be comparing the same construction twice.

Which Chain Holds a Pendant

The most common reason a chain fails is that it was never built to carry what was hung on it. This is the short version.

Best for a heavy pendant: box, Franco, wheat, curb, Cuban, Byzantine, Bismarck. All of these hold their shape under sustained load and resist twisting, so the pendant stays facing forward.

Fine for a light pendant: cable, rolo, mariner, figaro, rope, Singapore, satellite, paperclip.

Avoid for pendants entirely: herringbone, snake, serpentine, popcorn, omega, ball chain. These either kink permanently, crush, or carry their load on connecting wires that were never meant to take weight.

Two failure modes worth understanding, because they behave differently:

Stretch affects cable, rope and other open-link constructions. Links elongate gradually under weight, so you get visible warning and a jeweller can replace individual links.

Kinking affects the flat ribbon chains: herringbone, snake, serpentine. There is no warning. One sharp bend displaces the plates and the crease is permanent. This is the most common irreparable chain damage there is.

And on every chain, whatever the construction, the clasp fails before the links do on the large majority of lost necklaces. A spring ring on a heavy chain is a mismatch worth checking before you buy.

Chain Length, Width and Weight

Length. For women, 16 to 18 inches is standard, with 18 inches sitting at the collarbone and working with the widest range of necklines. For men, 20 to 24 inches is usual, with 20 inches sitting at the collarbone and 24 inches resting over a t-shirt or kurta.

Width. Roughly 1 to 2mm reads delicate and suits pendants. Around 3 to 5mm is everyday weight for men and statement weight for women. Above 6mm is deliberately bold and needs the rest of the outfit to be quiet.

Solid or hollow. This explains most of the price difference between two chains that look identical. Weight drives the price of silver, so a hollow chain of the same visible width costs considerably less and is considerably weaker. Hollow chains also dent permanently rather than bending back. Always worth asking which one you are being sold.

How price is calculated. Silver weight multiplied by the current rate, plus making charges, plus GST. Intricate constructions like Byzantine, wheat and Bismarck carry higher making charges because they use far more links per centimetre and require more soldering.

Our full silver chains collection covers Singapore, diamond-cut, mesh, bead, paperclip and bar link styles for men and women.